Installation Instructions for 1. permanent tile mural installations, 2. installing removable ready to hang tile murals and backsplashes, 3. glueing decorative tile onlays , 4. installing mosaic tile medallions 5. plaques
use paper to size your backsplash mural
click picture to see larger
How to pick a size for your mural backsplash
The ideal size of the mural is da Vinci proportions which means the mural should take up four fifths of the space. It also look good to fill the space completely. With murals you can never be too big, it does not look good if the mural is too small.
To help with sizing, you can cut out a piece of paper to the size you think the mural should be, tape it to the wall, then stand back and see if you like the ways it fits the space. You can use blue painter's tape to simulate the
1. Permanent tile mural installations
Your beautiful stone tile mural by Linda Paul Studio can be installed by a professional tile installer or by you!
Your mural has a legend on the back to guide you
Materials Needed for Installation
- Premixed white ceramic tile adhesive or premixed white thinset
- Notched Trowel
- small plastic smooth trowel
- Ceramic tile spacers (optional ) small spaces looks better than big spaces
- Sponge (small kitchen sponge works fine)
- Rubber Float
- Grout - optional ( unsanded grout is recommended)
- Bucket with water
- Wood bar for stabilizing bottom row of tiles. If there is not an existing row of tiles on your wall, nail or screw a small wood bar directly below the bottom row of where your mural will be installed. This will prevent the tiles from slipping down during installation and curing
Lay out your mural on a flat surface. The mural tiles are numbered on the back as in the diagram above. The legend starts at the bottom left corner
Make sure the installation surface is clean and free of wallpaper, grease etc.
click picture to see larger image
Always start with the mural in the center and work out
Start with the bottom row of tiles or mural border. If there is not an existing row of tiles, backsplash or support on your wall, nail or screw a small straight wood bar directly below the bottom row of where your mural will be installed. Use a level to make sure the wood bar is straight and level. This will prevent the tiles from slipping down during installation and curing.
(If you have an extra day for your project, install the bottom row of tiles first and let them set 24 hours before proceeding)
1. Adhering the tiles to the wall
Starting with the bottom row, spread a thin layer of premixed thinset on the wall then use a notched trowel to make valleys in the thinset
Butter the back of the tile with thinset then use the notched trowel to create valleys in the adhesive.
Press the tile firmly into place.
(Note: Put a moderate amount of adhesive on the tile, but not so much that it oozes out the sides.)
Immediately wipe off any thinset that get onto the front of the mural tile and do no let any thinset dry on the front of your mural. Wipe any excess off with a wet sponge.
If you are using spacers, place 1/8” spacers between the tiles (spacers also help prevent to prevent slipping)
Make sure you clean off any adhesive that gets on to the front of the tiles! Keep a bucket of water and sponge close by.
Once you have glued all the tiles to the wall. Let them cure 24 hours before grouting
3. grouting (optional)
- Start with a small section (12 tiles or so)
- Remove all tile spacers
- Dampen the tiles with water and a clean sponge (small kitchen sponge works well)
Apply just enough grout to fill the spaces (joints) between the tiles. Do not cover the entire surface of the mural with grout. (Tip from Linda Paul - use a small flat plastic trowel to place grout on the end of the float)
Holding the rubber float at a 45 degree angle, push the grout into the spaces between the tiles until they are filled.
Remove excess grout using the edge of the float at a 90 degree angle. Be sure to clean out any grout that gets into the surface pits of the tiles (it will not come out if it dries and can ruin the look of your mural)
|Grouting tip: on putting the grout between the tiles is to put the grout in a freezer bag and zip it. Cut a small hole at the corner of the freezer bag and applies to the 1/8 inches space between the tiles. Be sure to wipe off any excessive of the tile with a clean sponge often.
Clean any excess grout off the tiles using a clean sponge and clean water, avoiding the grout lines.
For smooth joints: use the end of your finger.
for a textured rustic look: Take the sponge and pat the grout lines. It’s a great look with the tumbled stone.
Clean the tiles with the edge of the sponge until they look clean! (Not hazy) If there is haze, you can remove it several hours later.
Some of our customers choose not to grout their murals. They place the tiles tight together. Whether to grout or not is an aesthetic personal choice of whether you like the look of the lines or you want the image to be more continuous.
Sealing Grout Lines (optional)
After grout has completely dried, you can seal the lines with a penetrating grout sealer. You do not need to seal the tiles as they come already sealed.
Be very careful to only seal the grout lines. If you get the grout sealer on the mural, you may get a shiny seal over our beautiful satin/matte finish
Some installations may require cutting of tiles. You can cut our stone tiles with a wet saw. The sharper the blade the cleaner the cut and the less likely you will have a jagged edge.
Care of your beautiful mural
Your mural is a work of art! Clean your mural with soft cloth and soap and water or regular Windex
Warning: Do not use any vinegar or lemon juice (which are acids), Some of the so called natural cleaning products have very corrosive substances in them.
Some of our Customers have had great success using this innovative new product for installing tiles called the simplemat. Visit the thesimplemat.com website and watch their video on how to install tiles with this self adhesive product. No fuss no muss no mess
2. How to Install your ceramic tile mural as ready to hang wall art or removable backsplash
Here is a super simple backsplash idea. You can install our tile murals as a removable backsplash or ready to hang wall art.
This is easy to do and you don't have to use grout! You can take your beautiful mural with you when you move.
These murals were installed as a removable backsplashes
- A 3/8" mdf board cut to the size of your mural
- 4 oz tube of liquid nails or 10 minute epoxy
- 4 butterfly wall anchors
1. Plan your space:
Once you have all of your tiles, lay them out and measure the exact width and height. Using framing tile is recommended as it hides the installation wall anchors so the mural can be removed at a later date. You will need to countersink the screws into the board unless you buy the framing tiles that have a hollow underside, these will hide the screws that hold the mural to the wall.
2. Cut your Board
Cut a 3/8" mdf board (available at Home Depot or Lowe's) to the exact size of the mural and surrounding framing tile. Make sure your board is flat. Once the board is cut, hold it up on the wall where you want you mural to be and draw a line around it on the wall
3. Line up the tiles
On a flat surface, place the mural tiles and framing tiles on the board and line everything up. Remove the framing tiles and draw a line around just the mural. Then mark where the edge of each framing tile is on the board.
Drill a hole in each of the four corners large enough to accommodate the butterfly wall anchors (3/8" to 1/2")
mural laid out on board
4. Gluing the tiles onto the board
Using the liquid nails or a 10 minute epoxy, glue the mural tiles onto the board and let dry. use can also use the self adhesive Simplemat product show at the top of this page.
Next, you will glue on the framing tiles leaving off the four corner framing tiles (an is the step 5 picture) so that you can attach the board to the wall. Let dry overnight.
5. Attaching the board to the wall
You will need two people for this step. Holding the board up the the wall , mark the drill hole locations for the 4 anchors on the wall. Drill four holes and make sure they are large enough to accommodate the anchors. Holding the board in place screw the board to the wall using the butterfly anchors. Note: these murals are heavy, do use any other kind of anchor unless you are placing screws directly into a wall stud.
mural mounted on wall
corner before last tile is glued on
6. Glue the four corner tiles
Finally, you will glue on the four corner framing tiles. Use a very small amount of the glue so that these tiles can be popped off at a later date and the mural relocated. Its a good idea to buy extra framing tiles in case you break one.
see pictures of Installed Kitchen backsplashes and ceramic tile murals
3. Applying decorative tile onlays onto existing stone tile or other surfaces
shows Vienna grape and Chateau grapes onlay installed over red tile
Decorative onlays may be mounted over an existing substrate. Adhere to stone, glass and ceramic using a quickset 2-part epoxy and seal around edges with a clear bead of silicone. Pieces may also be adhered to metal or wood and can be used for exterior application or around a heat source (see warning) using the appropriate adhesive or wood bond such as SikaBond® Construction Adhesive.
Warning: Onlays installed above a cook top, outdoor kitchen or fireplace must be set 5 to 6 inches above and 3 to 4 inches back from heat source and have a minimum 2 inch set back from the profile (face of the tile). Failure to do so may result in damage and will void the warranty. Note : If using an adhesive allow to off-gas (5-7 days) first, then run a clear bead of silicone around outside edges to keep moisture out. Failure to do so may cause piece to delaminate from substrate.
Materials needed for installing decorative onlays using epoxy glue:
wooden coffee stir sticks
2 part 5 minute quick set epoxy such as Loctite
disposable container for mixing the epoxy glue
clear silicone sealant
Important: Try a test first to see how the glue that you purchased adheres to your particular surface
1. Plan out exactly where the onlay will be applied to the tile or other surface
2. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry.
3. Wear rubber gloves and squeeze out the 2 part gel epoxy into a disposable container. Make sure to mix the 2 part together very well. I like to use wooden coffee stir sticks for this.
4. When possible apply the mixed epoxy to both surfaces. For some of the intricate decorative onlays , this may not be possible. Apply a generous amount to the back of the onlay (but not so much that it oozes out the sides) and press it against the surface you are glueing to. If you are glueing to a vertical wall , hold each piece for at least 10 minutes without moving it. Even though it says 5 minute epoxy, it takes 10 minutes to hold and a full 24 hours to set. Remove any excess glue that squeezes out the side with a coffee stir stick. (check what color your epoxy will dry to to make sure it is a good match for your application surface. After 5 to 7 days, runs a bead of silicone around the outside edges to keep out moisture.
Tip: its much easier to glue an tile accent piece on a horizontal surface, than a vertical one. so if you are glueing the accents onto a sheet of mosaic to, try to do this on a flat table top, then adhere the whole piece to the wall.
see collection of decorative tile onlays
4. Tips and Instructions for how to install Mosaic Tile Medallions and Liners
click photo to see larger image
Our mosaic tile medallions and liners come mounted on a mesh. Installed tile must use a high-grade urethane compatible indoor/outdoor thin-set mortar such as Custom EBMLite™ Epoxy Bonding Mortar. If not using mortar, construction adhesive such as SikaBond® may be used.
High relief tile, liners chair rails and bases installed above a cook top, outdoor kitchen or fireplace must be set 5 to 6 inches above and 3 to 4 inches back from heat source and have a minimum 2 inch set back from the profile (face of the tile). Failure to do so may result in damage and will void the warranty.
The medallions must be grouted. sanded or unsanded grout can be used. Make sure you wipe off all excess grout and do not allow grout to dry on mosaic surface or the metal accents. A sealer is recommended for the stone tiles after installation.
use GOJO® hand cleaner sparingly with extra fine steel wool to remove water spots and unwanted green patina.
Sanded and unsanded grout may be used. Mask off tile to eliminate grout on all relief pieces and avoid scratching the finish. Using a small brush and water only, remove excess grout from tile before it dries. Towel dry to avoid water spots. All grout must be removed from the surface before it dries to eliminate damaging the finish. Non-abrasive GOJO® hand cleaner may be applied lightly before grouting as a grout release and to remove grout haze on all surfaces after grout dries.
GoJo hand cleaner alsoworks well to polish the metal accents
Tip from Linda Paul : You can use a cake icing bag or a disposable squeeze bottle to create a thin filling of grout between the stones. Smooth out the grout with your finger or small piece of wet sponge. Make sure you wipe off all excess grout and do not allow grout to dry on mosaic surface or metal accents
You can use a soft toothbrush to remove wet grout from the crevices of metal pieces
Plaques and Plaque Onlays must be
kept flat until installation. If warping does occur,
lay the piece on a flat warm surface (in the sun)
and it will flatten. An attempt to flatten a cold
piece could cause damage. Plaques can be used behind
a cook top (see warning) or as an inset in showers
and cabinets. For plaques, use a product such as
along with a quick set 2-part epoxy
on the corners to hold until the adhesive sets
Plaques installed above a cook top,
outdoor kitchen or fireplace must be set 5 to 6
inches above and 3 to 4 inches back from heat source
and have a minimum 2 inch set back from the profile
(face of the tile). Failure to do so may result in
damage and will void the warranty.
Note: If using an adhesive allow to off-gas
(5-7 days) first, then run a clear bead of
silicone around outside edges to keep moisture out.
Failure to do so may cause piece to delaminate from
We recommend that an
experienced mosaic installer perform the mosaic
Warning: Mosaics installed
above a cooktop, outdoor kitchen or fireplace must
be set 5 to 6 inches above and 3 to 4 inches back
from heat source and have a minimum 2 inch set back
from the profile (face of the tile). Failure to do
so may result in damage and will void the warranty.
Mosaics should be kept flat in an
enclosed box in a cool dry place until installation
begins. Never expose mesh-backed mosaics to moisture
or temperatures above 95 degrees. To move or
transport a mosaic, leave plastic sheet on back and
carefully place on a piece of plywood or other solid
surface. Always remove plastic sheet before
Mosaic medallions up to 48"
are usually shipped as one piece. Larger medallions
may be shipped in multiple pieces. Mosaic decos,
connectors and liners should only be picked up one
piece at a time. Pick mosaics up with two hands at
top or sides placing hands near corners or at
corners of one side of the piece. In some cases,
this operation may require two or more people. Lift
mosaic straight up and place the opposite end of the
mosaic in the mortar first. Always take care to
align piece in exact location so as not to require
adjustment later. Then proceed with mosaic stone
All mesh-backed products must be grouted. Failure
to do so will result in degradation of the setting
material and/or pieces lifting or falling out.
Mesh-backed mosaics depend on the application of
grout for their strength and resistance to the
elements. Wipe off all excess grout and do not allow
grout to dry on the mosaic surface. Non-abrasive
GOJO hand cleaner may be applied before
grouting as a grout release and to remove grout haze
on all surfaces after grout dries. See grout
manufacturer’s specifications for proper grout. We
recommend using an appropriate sealer after mosaic
is grouted. Stone sealer or enhancer will not keep
metal from aging naturally.